After the final checking of my two-wheeler, I started my journey from Guwahati at 12 noon of 14th January 2020. This time, the destination is Nohwet, an Isle village of Meghalaya. Nohwet, is situated at a distance of 160km from Guwahati City and 76km from Shillong. The jungle surrounded small village is in the district of West Khasi Hills, neighbouring to Mawlynnong (the cleanliest village of Asia). 

Driving through the curves and cuts of NH 27, followed by NH6 from Jorabat, it is a ride of Joy and Enthusiasm. Temperature is almost 15 degrees with a breeze. Though there are many roadside tea stalls to warm I intended only to stop at Barapani, which is an 88km journey from Guwahati. Barapani is famous for Umiam Lake and a great place for photographers like me! The watercolour of Umiam changes with time and temperature and is an attraction of tourists. 

Having a few cups of hot tea and photography, I started rolling, following modest traffic and reached Rilbong Point. It is a junction and the entrance to Shillong town is on the left and on its right, way to Upper Shillong. 

Taking right, I started climbing in a trail of heavy traffic. My route has also changed its name from NH6 to NH106. This road further leads to a junction, from where Travelers’ keep running straight on NH106 for Cherapunji and on the left NH206 for Dawki or Tamabil (Indo-Bangla Border).

The road goes up and up with sharp turns, with falling temperature and mesmerising beauty all around. In every turn of the twisting road, nature presents shivering surprises. On one side of the road stands hills and jungle and on the other, the deep gorges sliding towards eternal mystery. Riding needs a lot of skill and concentrations as the road is slippery with mist and visibility of approaching vehicles are very low due to fog. Passing by roadside huts and Pan shops, I reached Pynursla. Pynursla is comparatively a bigger village with various Shops, Banks with ATM facility on NH106. 

After a short break, I started for Pongtang which is 12km from Pynursla. Pongtang is a small village adjacent to National Highway that leads straight to Dawki through NH106 and the other bumpy road through dense forest to Mawlynnong and Nohwet at a distance of 17km. 

Finally, after almost 5 hours of drive, I reached Nohwet. I am greeted by Kids playing by the roads and few Babies waving their tiny hands babbling “Bye… Bye…”. Far away from home, it is indeed a great welcome for a lonely traveller like me. 

The village was set up almost 200 years back by Khongsdam Family as the village they were residing suffered from the epidemic. Presently, Hali Khongsdam, the successor of the “Khongsdam” running “Na I Mei Home Stay” in this village who first introduced the concept of “Home Stay” to attract Tourists. Nohwet, is home to around 2000 Khasi family who earn their living on Cultivation and collecting their needs from the jungles around. There are also a few small shops selling household items. Villagers are very simple and easy going and are very friendly.

The “Living Root Bridge” by the side of this village is a wonder of the Nature and pride of the villagers. Beside the Root Bridge, there are also few Sunset View Points that also attracts the Tourists. Sunset ViewPoints are Platforms made of Bamboo tied to tall trees (that grow from the Gorges). Climbing up through bamboo stairs to the View Point is exciting as well adventures. Like Mawlynnong, Nohwet is also clean and a well-decorated ethnic village. Most of the houses are colourful and are made of woods, and in front, there are small gardens.    

Hali Khongsdam is a great Host, Photographer, Story Teller and a wise Guide. He insisted to visit Wah Rymben falls the following morning. We settled in his kitchen, making plans and smoked chicken on a traditional “Chula”.

Following early morning, I and Hali started for Wah Rymbeb Falls in my two-wheeler. Though the drive was not very smooth beauty of the surroundings is mesmerising. Wah Rymbeb is situated at Lapalang, another village with scenic beauty! Drive of another 25km from Nohwet. Though it is almost dry during winter, the beauty of the place is unbelievable. Here, the challenge is a walk down the hill of almost 150ft through the stairs and again climbing up. Spending an hour we started for our next destination “Shnongpdeng” near Dawki, another 22km journey from Lapalang.

“Shnongpdeng” is a small village that attracts tourists for Camping in Tents on the Bank of Dawki River and Boating through the Canyons is a thrilling experience. “Shnongpdeng” is also famous for photography of the “Flying Boats”. Best time for photography is between 10 am to 12 pm at the starting point of Shnongpdeng falls, ensuring zero wind and sufficient sunlight.

At around 10.30 am we reached the “Toll Gate” run by the villagers. Paying Rs 10 per person and for my two-wheeler, we climbed down to the “Rocky Ghat” and hired a small Boat paying Rs.500. The excitement started growing with the turns of the river and the beauty of the place. The place is surrounded by tall canyons. Water is blue and somewhere it is green. I was overjoyed to find all the conditions favourable to me and was in no mood of missing any chance beauty of “Flying Boats”. Almost two hours were spend photographing and walking through the rocky bank listening Melody of “Shnongpdeng”. I was in no mood to leave an isle place like “Shnongpdeng” or “Nohwet”. We returned the boat and finished lunch with Local fish and delicious Daal with Sabji.

Its time to return to “Nohwet”  Back home to Guwahati, but last two days memories are still travelling through my mind. The Babbling Babies, Mystic whistling, Melody of the River comes in my sleep, waking my soul for another Journey to the Mystery….

Biplab is a travel writer who pens experiences of his two passions photography and travel. He is from Silchar, Assam and based at Guwahati.